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This feature article was published in the June 2005 edition of The Countryma in the UK
 The rugged scenery of Sheep's Head peninsula in West Cork
Take
the N71 west from Cork City and after a short drive you'll cross an
invisible line that defines the boundary of West Cork. This region,
at the very southern tip of the island of Ireland, has a turbulent
history. Co. Cork is known as Ireland's Rebel County to this day,
and West Cork was always at the very heart of Ireland's long
struggle for independence from British rule. The Irish are a
vehemently patriotic people - none more so than the people of West
Cork - and yet they are among the most open and welcoming people
you could ever wish to meet.
When
you take account of West Cork's rugged, beautiful scenery; its
vibrant towns and villages; its amiable, welcoming people and its
rich cultural heritage it's easy to see the region's appeal both
as a place to visit, and as a place to live. The area is a magnet for
tourists and often has a deep and abiding impact on those who come
here. Many return regularly, and some never leave.
I
first visited West Cork in 1993. Coming from a rural village on the
North Wales coast I was expecting rural Ireland to be similar to what
I was used to back home, but as soon as I stepped off the bus onto
the streets of Skibbereen I realised that there was something very
different about West Cork. During my stint in the region I was
captivated by the people and the raw, natural beauty of the place.
Although I left after six months to return to Wales, West Cork never
really left me, and I knew that one day I would return.
Now
it's 2005, and my family and I have been living in an old
schoolhouse in rural West Cork for two and a half years. We couldn't
be happier. It's a fantastic place for the children, and we've
been accepted into the local community with open arms. People are
friendly and hospitable, and really appreciate it if you make an
effort to get involved at a local level. Of course, there are
challenges to overcome living in a rural environment. The transition
to self employment isn't always a smooth one, and earning a living
can be difficult at first, but the quality of life here is amazing.
Everything is much more relaxed than my memories of rural life in the
UK.
 Colourful shops, like this one in Skibbereen, are still a common sight in West Cork
I'm
considered a "blow-in" here - a West Cork term that applies to
anyone who has come into the area from the world outside. It applies
as much to someone from Cork City as it does to those from the UK,
Europe or further afield. Over the last few years the influx of "blow-ins" from across the water has been on the rise, thanks in no small part to the availability of cheap flights, which make it easy and affordable to visit friends family back home, and vice-versa
But if you're not born and bred in West Cork,
you're a blow-in, and you always will be no matter how long
you live here... it's that simple.
Far
from being a slight, the term blow-in is simply a label that
identifies you as different, and if anything I've found it applied
in an endearing and complimentary manner. Locals seem to embrace the
diversity and variety that blow-ins bring to the region, and
different is usually seen as a positive thing.
Unsurprisingly,
given the proximity and shared language, a large proportion of West
Cork's blow-ins hail from across the Irish Sea, with UK nationals
making up over five percent of the West Cork population. That's
double Ireland's national average.
"If
you look at the demographic makeup of the region it's not really
typical of an Irish rural area," said Ian Dempsey, Chief Executive
of the West Cork Leader Co-Operative, a state organisation supporting
community and enterprise development. "There are a lot more
influences from different places that have been absorbed within the
region. Over a long period of time people have been attracted to move
to West Cork."
And
there's little doubt that Ireland in general, and West Cork in
particular, has a lot to offer as a place to live. In a recent
quality of life survey The Economist Intelligence Unit ranked Ireland
in 1st place out of 111 countries worldwide, compared to
the UK's 29th. West Cork Leader is currently conducting
a similar study in an Irish context. "When you benchmark West Cork
against a number of other counties, and against a national average, a
very positive quality of life emerges for people living in West
Cork," confirmed Ian Dempsey.
 Independent midwife Bridget Sheeran believes West Cork is the ideal place to bring up children
That's
a theory borne out by talking to other blow-ins. Bridget Sheeran
relocated to West Cork from south London in 1993. "I came to West
Cork because of the beauty of the place, and because I wanted to
bring my children up in an area where I could actually hear what they
were saying," she told me, "in other words where the traffic
wasn't so bad that even walking them to the park I couldn't hear
them."
With
family connections in Ireland the country was a natural choice when
Bridget decided to relocate. But rather than following her family
roots further north Bridget chose to settle in West Cork. Cleaner
air, unpolluted water and a proximity to the sea all factored into
her decision, but ultimately she just fell in love with the place.
"I
love it in West Cork," she said, describing some of the things that
inspired her move. "Every day I'd see something that made me
realise there was more than just us going about our daily business -
you could see a bit of nature wherever you turned."
A
qualified midwife and homeopath, Bridget had little difficulty
finding work in the area. But for many blow-ins earning a living is
one of the main challenges in moving into a rural area like West
Cork. For the most part you have to bring your own means of existence
with you. "In the past local employment wasn't an option, it
simply wasn't there," agrees Ian Dempsey. "That's the reason
why a lot of people would have been involved in setting up their own
enterprises in food, tourism, crafts, services or whatever."
Certainly
the fellow blow-ins I spoke to while researching this article were an
entrepreneurial bunch: all self employed and running their own
businesses. But it's not all about being wildly successful and
making money either - in fact it tends to be the opposite. Most
move here to get away from the rat race, and have no desire to
re-create a rat-race of their own. They are happy to earn a
reasonable living doing something they enjoy.
"You
have to redefine your definition of success and happiness," said
Andy Reynolds, a songwriter, producer and artist manager who worked
in London recording studios for ten years before moving his
song-writing, track-laying and mixing studio to the coastal town of
Bantry in West Cork. "If you're looking to relocate then you have
to do it for the right reasons, not because you think it's going to
be wildly successful in the materialistic sense," he warned. Andy
is learning Irish, and his children attend the local Gaelscoil (Irish
language school).
Jud
Weidner, a graphic designer originally from Newcastle whose mother
came from West Cork, believes that diversification is the key to
making a comfortable living, particularly with competition in
service-based industries increasing in the region. Jud moved to
Ireland in 1980, and to West Cork in 1989, when he and his West Cork
wife renovated her family home. They added an office from which Jud
now runs three businesses - his graphics design firm, a company
providing custom designed bereavement stationary and a digital media
company. He doesn't miss the northeast of England. "When I go
back I like it. The place has improved dramatically from what I left.
It's lovely now... but after a couple of days you say to yourself
‘I want to be back home'!"
 No kidding... smallholder Judy Wotton with another newcomer to the area
Judy
Wotton also subscribes to the theory of diversification. She keeps
goats and produces Ardagh Castle goat's cheese, which she sells at
the local farmers and country markets in Skibbereen and through other
local outlets. She also rents out a holiday cottage in the summer and
runs a small boarding kennels for cats and dogs. "It's no good
keeping all your eggs in one basket," maintains Judy, who first
discovered West Cork in 1995. "I came over on holiday with a
friend, and went back thinking that West Cork felt more like home
than Devon did." Two years later she moved here and now considers
West Cork home. "There's some sort of magnetism to it
isn't there? When I go back to England I get homesick. Having only
been here seven years that's quite extraordinary!"
Garden
designer and landscaper Adrian Marshal moved to West Cork just over a
year ago with his wife and 10 year old daughter. Originally from
Gloucester he lived in the USA for twenty years before returning to
the UK in 1991 to live in Somerset. "I was never completely happy
back in the UK," he said. "I'd lived in the country in Oregon,
and now we were living in the town. Buying property in the country in
the UK is prohibitive, and suburbia just didn't do it for me. In
Ireland it's quite the opposite: it's cheaper to live in the
country than in the towns, and that suited me down to the ground."
Adrian
feels he's found a place where he belongs here. "When I moved to
the States I had culture shock and was traumatised for quite a while.
When I moved back to England I would say exactly the same thing
happened. Moving here I've felt none of that." One of the
couple's grown up children has just followed their lead and moved
to West Cork, and the other two have expressed their intention to do
the same at some stage in the future. "I think that speaks
volumes," said Adrian.
 Called to the bar... a tractor left outside a West Cork pub
After
years travelling the world crewing private yachts, Eoin and Amanda
Roe decided to settle down. At first they thought of Devon, where
Eoin's from, but then visited a friend who'd moved to West Cork.
They now live in the idyllic village of Ballydehob about six miles
west of Skibbereen with their one-year-old twins.
"The
people are some of the friendliest and most accepting I've ever met
in my life," said Eoin, who enjoys the sense of space, freedom and
community that are part and parcel of West Cork life. "There's a
sense of community still which is definitely dying in a lot of rural
England."
True
to their maritime roots the couple are in the process of establishing
Blue Foot Marine, a business importing aluminium boats from New
Zealand. Here Eoin sees West Cork's proximity to the larger UK
market as a major plus. "My parents come from Plymouth, get on a
plane and in 45 minutes they're in Cork. An hour-and-a-half later
they're down here. The business is trying to reach the UK and
Ireland, and I don't see any reason why you can't do business in
both countries."
Most
of the blow-ins I've spoken to have carved out a comfortable niche
for themselves in West Cork, and have achieved a happy working
equilibrium that allows them to take advantage of the wonderful
quality of life the region offers. But it's by no means a one way
street - blow-ins contribute a great deal to West Cork, both in
terms of enterprise development and at a community level.
"Most
people who come here have made a choice to come to West Cork. An
extension of that is wanting to contribute to activities and
undertakings that reinforce the attractiveness of the region as a
place to live and work in," confirms Ian Dempsey. "If you
look the typical range of artistic, cultural, historical and heritage
type initiatives in the region a lot of them are underpinned by
people who have come in from elsewhere."
Perhaps
it's no accident that when West Cork Leader was looking for a
symbol for their regional branding initiative they selected the
fuchsia. This vibrant and ubiquitous shrub has come to embody the
positive characteristics of the region. And yet the fuchsia is not
indigenous to West Cork: it too is a blow in!
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